Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: coolant bypass mod

  1. #1
    Inactive Member 00ITR006's Avatar
    Join Date
    July 15th, 2000
    Posts
    355
    Follows
    0
    Following
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quoted
    0 Post(s)

    Post

    Has anyone done this, is it worth doing??????????

    It is very simple, costs under $1.00, and takes about 15 minutes to perform. It involves disconnecting the two coolant lines that lead to the bottom of the throttlebody. DO NOT PERFORM THIS MOD WHEN THE CAR IS HOT, LET THE CAR COOL DOWN COMPLETELY. You will need a "straight hose connector", which can be found at any auto parts store. Disconnect the two coolant lines that lead to the bottom of the throttlebody. When you disconnect the pipes from the throttle body, coolant will leak out. Check your coolant level afterwards to make sure it is adequate. Insert the "straight connector" between the two lines and join them together. Use the clamps that are already on the pipes and secure them tightly on the "straight connector".
    The purpose of this mod is to keep the coolant from heating up the throttle body. Although the throttle body will eventually heat up due to the heat transfer from the engine, it will be considerably cooler than before.

    *This mod is not recommended for vehicles that operate in VERY cold climates.


  2. #2
    Inactive Member zip's Avatar
    Join Date
    February 4th, 1999
    Posts
    1,160
    Follows
    0
    Following
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quoted
    0 Post(s)

    Post

    Yeah I've been running w/ the TB bypass since the SC was installed in April. I haven't had any problems with the mod thus far.

    ------------------
    Mods

  3. #3
    Inactive Member Holden's Avatar
    Join Date
    November 6th, 1999
    Posts
    3,007
    Follows
    0
    Following
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quoted
    0 Post(s)

    Post

    This mod will cause a horrible idle in GSR's due to the IAB design.

    Also, the throttle body will freeze up at temperatures around 50 degrees F, so it doesn't really need to be that cold to have problems.

    Not recommended for GSR's. If it doesn't mess up idle and you never drive in sub-50 degree weather, give it a shot.

    Greg

  4. #4
    Inactive Member Holden's Avatar
    Join Date
    November 6th, 1999
    Posts
    3,007
    Follows
    0
    Following
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quoted
    0 Post(s)

    Post

    BTW, coolant also flows through the intake manifold. Some company makes an intake manifold gasket that blocks the ports, but I don't remember the name.

  5. #5
    Inactive Member nicherw's Avatar
    Join Date
    July 11th, 2000
    Posts
    103
    Follows
    0
    Following
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quoted
    0 Post(s)

    Post

    Does this actually work in doing something for performance?

  6. #6
    Inactive Member Zeus's Avatar
    Join Date
    July 5th, 1999
    Posts
    463
    Follows
    0
    Following
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quoted
    0 Post(s)

    Post

    Did the bypass on my ITR, idle isn't as steady but the untrained eye would miss it... I don't have any problems in the few cold days we've had down here...(32F is cold in Austin, TX biggrin)

    Think Hondadata makes the gasket to block the passages... but then again, when I put the JRSC on my GSR, I don't remember any coolant passages in the plenum... it's been quite a while though...

    Anytime you can cool the plenum, or prevent it from heating up, you will have a "cooler intake charge".

    ------------------
    1998' 4dr GSR, 8psi JRSC w/hand ported plenum, Walbro HP fuel pump, valves set to .005i/.006e, MSD BTM, B&M CommandFlo regulator(working it out), stock intake w/resinator cut off at fenderwell for "cool air", Greddy sp exhaust, Tokico Illumina 5-ways, Neuspeed springs(sux!), Skunkworks 22mm rear swaybar, ES motor mounts and front swaybar bushings, Yokohama AVS 205/50/15's, Metal Master brake pads(KVR Carbon Fibre pads sitting on work bench) ,B&M fuel pressure gauge, Autometer sport comp A/F gauge in dimmer location...

    YLW 00' ITR #00-1011 with AEM CAI and 143db triple air horns

    Honest officer, I had no idea how fast I was going...the speedometer only gos to 150...

    Get paid to surf the Web!!! http://www.alladvantage.com/go.asp?refid=TUD-039

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •